7″ Long-Range Quad (6S2P Li-Ion)
A reference long-range build — bigger props and a Li-Ion pack traded for endurance and reach, not punch-outs. This is the same 7″ example that runs through Module 2 (hover power), Module 5 (motor sizing) and Module 6 (flight time) — this page just assembles it into an actual parts list.
Part list
| Part | Choice (example) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Frame | 7″ true-X or tank-style, room for a GPS mast | Longer arms than a 5″; check prop clearance with 7″ props |
| Motors | 4× 2806.5, ~1300 KV, 6S | Low KV + big prop trades RPM for efficiency — see Brushless Motors |
| ESC | 4-in-1, 40–50 A | Long-range hover draw is much gentler than freestyle punch-outs — see ESC |
| Flight ctrl | H7 | UART count matters here — GPS, telemetry and a digital VTX add up fast — see Flight Controller |
| Props | 7″, 2-blade | Two blades win on peak efficiency at cruise — see Propellers |
| Battery | 6S2P Li-Ion (21700 cells), 8.4 Ah | Li-Ion trades peak current for far more energy per kilogram — see Battery |
| GPS | M10-class module | Mount away from power wiring and the VTX — see GPS Module |
| Receiver | ELRS, long-range packet rate | Drop to a lower packet rate (e.g. 50 Hz) for range headroom — see Radio Receiver |
| Camera/VTX/antenna | Analog or digital, patch + omni diversity on the goggles | See VTX and VTX Antenna |
Target numbers
Continuing the worked example from Module 2 and Module 6:
- All-up weight goal: ≈ 1.5 kg.
- Hover power: ≈ 205 W (hover efficiency ≈ 7.3 g/W — right in range for this class).
- Pack energy: 6S2P, 8.4 Ah × 21.6 V ≈ 181 Wh.
- Expected flight time: ≈ 42 min hovering, using 80% of the pack — cruise is similar or better, since forward flight is more efficient than hover.
Unlike the 5″ freestyle build, TWR here is not the goal — a long-range quad is sized for endurance, not acceleration. Treat 4–6 as a sensible range rather than chasing the 8–12 a freestyle build wants.
Build order I follow
- Solder motors to the 4-in-1 ESC, check rotation directions.
- Mount the stack on soft grommets, and mount the GPS on a mast away from power wiring and the VTX — both interfere with the compass and can kill the fix.
- First power-up on a current-limited supply (smoke-stopper), props off.
- Configure motor directions and calibrate the compass away from any metal desk or tools.
- Set the ELRS packet rate for range (e.g. 50 Hz long-range mode), then configure and deliberately test GPS rescue — switch off the radio at altitude over an open field — before trusting it kilometers out.
- Maiden close to home first. Only push distance once rescue, failsafe, and the compass have all been proven on real flights.
Every first-power-up and configuration step happens with propellers removed. They go on only when you're outside and ready to fly.
GPS Rescue is not "configured and done" — it's a real failure mode you should trigger on purpose, in the open, before you ever rely on it at range. See GPS Module for the rescue state machine.